Saturday, November 30, 2013

5 Reacting to Fake Tastes



After having spent an inordinate amount of time concerned with food, it is hard to accept that good tasting food is nothing but an attempt to fake out the natural senses.  I cannot count the times I have searched for restaurants offering unique dishes, the number of supermarkets, groceries, bodega, and the like I have gone through looking for something interesting, the recipes I have read through, the books on food I have bought and read, the blogs on food adventures I’ve monitored, and so on.  This is all because I was fooled by the makers, purveyors, writers and so on into thinking something real was happening? 

All the people I’ve known who were concerned with food were well-intentioned, decent, honest folks and I cannot believe they would have anything to do with faking people out.  And good cooking has been talked about for three or four millennium at least, so it’s not a function of current society’s goals or directions.  Something very basic is here.  People have sensors in their heads that give them good feelings when they are triggered, and the feedback of people eating something delicious is very obvious to the people involved in preparing and serving it.  Pleasing people may be part of our inner nature, our deep programming, our brainstem’s wiring, and the happiness that ‘good’ food creates probably hits this trigger very strongly as well.  So, ‘fake tastes’, as I called it before, is part of a social behavioral process that is more general than any individual setting. 

As noted before, the process is made possible by the difference in time scales.  There is a short-term one.  You liking food takes a second or two and the wellness feeling that comes from satiety comes in tens of minutes.  There is a long-term one.  Your health deteriorates over days, weeks, months or years if the food is only good tasting, and not sufficiently nutritious.  Growth is affected similarly to health.  Poorly fed people don’t grow as tall as well fed people; this was clearly documented, among other sources, by the post-war increase in height among Japanese.  So, good cooks or clever food industrialists can get inside the second time scale to manipulate the first.  The human body does not have a mechanism to connect poor health or restricted growth with nutritional deficits except for gross malnutrition.  So there is no safety mechanism to protect us against fake tastes.

Now the engineering problem is clearer.  The customer has no way of rapidly judging the real quality of food, measured by how well it supports his health, growth, longevity, capability, and so on, but he does have a clear way of rapidly judging the tastes that are involved, and his judgment is very much affected by the psychological effects they have.  Should we engineer food to be more nutritious or to taste better?  Some, probably small, fraction of the population is immune to good tastes to a large degree, and is unaffected by them, especially in subtle ways, and they can make conscious intelligent decisions to consume nutritious food that covers the requirements spectrum.  The remaining, probably huge, majority, wants good tasting food that they would hope would be nutritious.  Watching people in a supermarket clarifies the division of consumers.  Cart after shopping cart full of less nutritious food, maybe easy to prepare or preparation-free, will parade by before you see one with a concentration on health, at least in the lower level of supermarkets.  Premium supermarkets have a larger fraction of nutrition shoppers.

Children are a special subset of food consumers.  Taste preferences develop with age.  The ones which operate at birth relate, most likely, to mother’s milk tastes, and others may or may not be present that early.  However, one of the simple tastes, sweetness, seems to come on strongly very early.  There is a question, perhaps not yet known to food scientists, as to what portion of food preferences are learned, leaving the rest to be genetic.  Genetic ones can appear at later ages, and learning is obviously something that happens as time progresses, so there is no obvious way to tell the difference by observing how children develop a diversity of taste preferences. 

Cooking, by an engineer or not, for children, needs goals also, but the goals should be those of the parents.  They decide what to serve their children.  These goals then motivate the engineer to do his best to satisfy them efficiently, cost-effectively, and sufficiently.   What should the engineer’s expectations be, allowing him to plan for the most general case of feeding children?  Most of us have observed parents who know no other mode of operating than being a servant to their children, treating them as royalty, and trying to please them.  Other parents are indifferent to the desires of their children, and cook what they like, with extra portions for the children.  Somewhere in the middle, or off to one side of this spectrum, are those who recognize their children need to learn about foods, and plan menus that have usual foods plus something new, which is mandatory for the children to taste or even consume completely.  Engineering is supposed to be a moral profession, committed to the common good, safety, and other positive social attributes.  Should an engineer use his skills to help parents with ‘royal children’, in other words, parents whose psychology is so negative that their self-image will not permit them to put any pressure on the child, or parents who gain all their positive feelings from pleasing other people, not bothering to think if that is the right thing for a child? 
This is obviously related to the question as to whether an engineer professing to be moral will help people eat, more efficiently, cost-effectively or whatever, food which undermines their health or sabotages their immune system, leaving them vulnerable to infection, or which will restrict their growth to below that of a well-fed individual, or any other less than optimal solution?  Who’s in charge: the engineer or other professional, or the consumer? 

Alas, I hoped in this blog to quickly use my engineering experience to say something intelligent and useful about cooking and food in general, but instead, the very first step of figuring out goals for the activity turned into a swamp of conflicting ideas.  Not having realized that good taste is largely a euphemism for tricking the complicated set of food sensors in the head into classifying the food as healthy in the extreme, it seemed that some use of databases about foods could be done to make things efficient, or some scheduling algorithms might speed up food preparation, or something else bright might come out.  Instead, I need to ponder why people have sought to have fake tastes for a long time, and how modern industrial techniques are making that easier and easier, while more and more dangerous, or at least worrying. 

To digress a bit toward thinking about a more general view of the problem, we can think about the human being as an organism that is largely controlled by his brain, which responds to sensors in the body, and which communicates via electrical networks in the brain and by neurochemicals, produced by various glands and other organs, which affect the brain.  You could say that a person’s goals are to produce the right pleasure chemicals in his brain, and there are many ways to do this.  The goal that underlies the decision-making process in a human is not something connected with his own welfare, but with the chemical constituents of some portions of his brain.  When technology, either primitive from millennia past or current, figures out how to affect these chemicals, it allows the technology-user to bypass the welfare of the client or customer, and simply go directly to the more powerful method of affecting the chemicals.  This happens in food preparation.  It also seems to happen in multiple other scenes.  Examples include relationships of all kinds.  If one person can say or do something that changes the chemicals of the other person’s brain to be more of the pleasure-related ones, they then have power over that second person.  If the second person is principally reacting to statements, and responds by taking actions, the leverage that the first person has over the second is very high.  Without any kind of contract, the second has become the servant or vassal of the first.  Someone who learns the art of creating pleasure reactions in others with nothing more than speech or communication gains a great amount of power if the others do not understand what is going on.  Is this what advertising is?

What does this all mean?  Maybe I can figure out something for another blog.